Cafe Marlayne

Cafe Marlayne - Thursday 1st February.
76 Thistle Street
Edinburgh
2262230


Cafe Marlayne is situated opposite the famous Cafe St Honore. I had originally intended to go to Cafe St Honore, but one bad experience whilst in their making my booking led to me cancelling it. Recounting my bad experience with the staff in there, a friend recommended Cafe Marlayne to me, and I booked knowing very little about it, other than it was 'small, very french and very friendly'.

They weren't joking. The restaurant seems to have about 8 tables, some of which shouldn't really be there, but I guess revenue dictates they shove tables uncomfortably close to the toilets and the front door. My table for two was right next to the bar, so close that when the waitress went to cut the bread I was showered in breadcrumbs (ironic considering my wheat allergy). Ordinarily I may have been really bothered by this, but the atmosphere in the restaurant supercedes all this - it is wonderful, even on a weekday night at a relatively early dining hour.

I alerted the staff to my allergies at the beginning of the meal, and they coudln't have been more helpful. The restaurant appears to be owned by a husband/wife team - the husband chefs and the wife is the maitre'd, at course changes the chef came out to consult me on what I could and couldn't have and seriously could not have been more helpful, polite and generally genial about the whole affair - which I know is a tremendous faff for him to attend to at a not particuarly quiet time.

My starter was a rabbit terrine - clearly home made as the chef could detail to me the exact processes and ingredients when asked as to what was in it. The consistency was wonderful, the seasoning perfect and the temperature it was served at was good.( One of my pet hates is being served pates and terrines at what seems below freezing.) My dining partner enjoyed mussels, which were not too buttery and the portion was generously sized.

Monkfish had caught my eye on the mains list, and I'd been told the fish here was good. Though served with disappointing vegetables (I could see the chef reheating them from where I sat - more than a little offputting), the fish flaked beautifully and was meaty and flavourful. It hadn't been cooked to death as you sometimes find with fish of this sort and the sauce (which I must confess I haven't a clue what it was - it seemed pesto-ey, but wasn't pesto) didn't overpower it. My companion's veal wasn't as good as Rhubarb (unsurprising), but this was aspiring to French Bistro rather than Den of Iniquity and they were very pleased with it.

Pudding I had to skip completely due to dairy allergies - but they all looked FABULOUS - they also said if I gave notice of a return they would probably be able to prepare something. I consoled myself with an Amaretto and a coffee, full and happy. During the meal I had ordered a bottle of Macon Lugny. The wine list is sadly a little uninspired at Cafe Marlayne as it sticks to very safe french wines, but doesn't go to the more interesting or exceptional regions of any of the key French areas. It sticks to generic, standard bottles, which seems surprising when the food was so good. Had more exctiting stuff been on offer, I could have easily been persuaded to spend more on the wine. Cafe Marlayne could make a lot of money on wine, and it is baffling as to why they are not offering more - maybe they haven't the space, the stockist or the interest - in any case they need to wise up pretty sharpish.

Two starters, two mains, a bottle of wine, two coffees and an amaretto came to around £75 excluding service.