Showing posts with label Edinburgh Restaurants. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Edinburgh Restaurants. Show all posts

Saturday, 5 April 2008

Cafe Marlayne

Cafe Marlayne - Thursday 1st February.
76 Thistle Street
Edinburgh
2262230


Cafe Marlayne is situated opposite the famous Cafe St Honore. I had originally intended to go to Cafe St Honore, but one bad experience whilst in their making my booking led to me cancelling it. Recounting my bad experience with the staff in there, a friend recommended Cafe Marlayne to me, and I booked knowing very little about it, other than it was 'small, very french and very friendly'.

They weren't joking. The restaurant seems to have about 8 tables, some of which shouldn't really be there, but I guess revenue dictates they shove tables uncomfortably close to the toilets and the front door. My table for two was right next to the bar, so close that when the waitress went to cut the bread I was showered in breadcrumbs (ironic considering my wheat allergy). Ordinarily I may have been really bothered by this, but the atmosphere in the restaurant supercedes all this - it is wonderful, even on a weekday night at a relatively early dining hour.

I alerted the staff to my allergies at the beginning of the meal, and they coudln't have been more helpful. The restaurant appears to be owned by a husband/wife team - the husband chefs and the wife is the maitre'd, at course changes the chef came out to consult me on what I could and couldn't have and seriously could not have been more helpful, polite and generally genial about the whole affair - which I know is a tremendous faff for him to attend to at a not particuarly quiet time.

My starter was a rabbit terrine - clearly home made as the chef could detail to me the exact processes and ingredients when asked as to what was in it. The consistency was wonderful, the seasoning perfect and the temperature it was served at was good.( One of my pet hates is being served pates and terrines at what seems below freezing.) My dining partner enjoyed mussels, which were not too buttery and the portion was generously sized.

Monkfish had caught my eye on the mains list, and I'd been told the fish here was good. Though served with disappointing vegetables (I could see the chef reheating them from where I sat - more than a little offputting), the fish flaked beautifully and was meaty and flavourful. It hadn't been cooked to death as you sometimes find with fish of this sort and the sauce (which I must confess I haven't a clue what it was - it seemed pesto-ey, but wasn't pesto) didn't overpower it. My companion's veal wasn't as good as Rhubarb (unsurprising), but this was aspiring to French Bistro rather than Den of Iniquity and they were very pleased with it.

Pudding I had to skip completely due to dairy allergies - but they all looked FABULOUS - they also said if I gave notice of a return they would probably be able to prepare something. I consoled myself with an Amaretto and a coffee, full and happy. During the meal I had ordered a bottle of Macon Lugny. The wine list is sadly a little uninspired at Cafe Marlayne as it sticks to very safe french wines, but doesn't go to the more interesting or exceptional regions of any of the key French areas. It sticks to generic, standard bottles, which seems surprising when the food was so good. Had more exctiting stuff been on offer, I could have easily been persuaded to spend more on the wine. Cafe Marlayne could make a lot of money on wine, and it is baffling as to why they are not offering more - maybe they haven't the space, the stockist or the interest - in any case they need to wise up pretty sharpish.

Two starters, two mains, a bottle of wine, two coffees and an amaretto came to around £75 excluding service.

BarRioja

BarRioja
Jeffrey St
Edinburgh
4th April 2008


BarRioja is the tapas outfit of the Iggs establishment next door, catering for simpler Spanish tastes. I went there with my Spanish friend who was visiting from Manchester, (he's from Madrid and has lived there most of his life). He was very much up for investigating the authenticity of the cities Spanish places, and I had no idea who authentic BarRioja was so of course, for the sake of food writing, we had to go. The interior is very Spanish apparetly, it's not done up, but it's not this faux Spanish back street nonsense you get at La Tasca and the Tapas Tree on Broughton St (which is terrible incidentally, but that's another story and another review). It's slick, but a little rough at the edges still, and very very busy. We had possibly the wost table in the restaurant, as it's in the gangway by the door so we got knocked about by the (lovely) staff and gusts of cold air, but you stop caring after glass number 2.

I ordered the wine a tempranillo from Castilla (thumbs up, nice and juicy and a whack of spice, not too heavy making it pretty adapatable and therefore perfect for tapas) and let my friend order the tapas as he's the expert and I'm a bit of a novice with spanish food - i told him I wasn't leaving without some black pudding and calamares though, and he agreed that this was the way forward. The black pudding was one of the stars, it was just the right side of crumbly and superbly and innovatively spiced - I've never had black pudding like it, and I wish I knew how they did it. We also had a plate of cured meats, the calamares, patatas bravas (extremely firey) and a bean salad. Cacaphonous mish mash of flavours and textures aside, it was superb. Tapas is supposed to be a bit chaotic and this is a large part of its charm and appeal. The food was very enjoyable and, my friend claims, the best Spanish meal he's had in the UK. High praise indeed knowing that Evuna in Manchester is like.

I finished the meal on a Pedro Ximinez, as I can't end a spanish meal without a glass of sherry and we paid. £45 for a bottle of wine, 5 dishes, olives, a decent bottle and a glass of PX. I thought that was excellent value and will certainly go again. Highly recommended.

Friday, 4 April 2008

Dusit - Restaurant Review

Dusit.
Thistle Street.
Twice in March.


My first visit to Dusit was with my mother. The conversation and the company was painful, but thankully the food made up for it. Dusit is tucked down Thistle Street, an odd little alley in Edinburgh's new town which seems to be a burgeoning gastronimic road - it's also home to Cafe Marlayne and Cafe St Honore as well as the new premises of Plaisir du Chocolat. The brisk service (which borders on so abrupt its rude) means this place runs very efficiently. Sadly, it's still doing that annoying thing of having 2 sittings in order to milk it for all its worth as Dusit is very popular. But never mind, as I say - the food makes up for a lot here. My second time to Dusit was for a freinds birthday where 8 of us squeezed into their private dining room in the basement. The one complaint I would have here, was that every time we ordered a bottle of wine, they automatically brought two without me asking for two and we weren't actually left alone by the staff, so it felt like we were being watched a lot.

Anyway, the food - the starters offer a huge variety of flavours, meats and intensity of heat. Koo Saneha - scallops and king prawns with garlic and chilli sounds basic, but the sear on the scallops was so beautifully done (and the scallops were rather large) that the quality of the fish did most of the talking. Gai Haw Bai-Toey, my other favourite, was chicken marinated in whisky and sesame and bound in a large leaf. There is also the usual selection of dumpling style starters and spring rolls, but if you're adventurous you are centrainly rewarded.
Main courses range from the standard Thai dishes (Pad Thai, Pad Krapaow, Panag curry etc) to the more strange and elaborate. Gaeng Luk Gua Ong Yang - Venison with artichoke anyone? This sounded postively European, until you encounter the delicate and fragrant spices. Pla Si-iew - the crispy sea bass was probably my favourite however, with shaosing, soy and ginger as a beautifully balanced and delicate dressing.

As is the case with the minefield of flavours that asian food is, we went for Alsatian Gewurztraminer. Thankfully whoever put the Dusit wine list together has had some experience of asian dining with wine pairings. The range of aromatic wines were good whilst the usual suspects were there as crowd pleasers.

Dusit isn't cheap - on both occasions I forked out between £25-35, but I'd certainly rather go here than to any other Thai in the city.


(Though you might me able to tempt me with a RickShaws.)

Wednesday, 12 March 2008

Rhubarb Edinburgh, Restaurant Review

Rhubarb restaurant @ Prestonfield
Prestonfield House
Priestfield Road
Edinburgh

225 1333



I was wary about Rhubarb, various reports had claimed it was all flashy decor and no real substance, one review from the Daily Telegraph really worried me - but I'd enjoyed my prior visits to James Thompsons other institutions and made a booking anyway.

As the taxi swept us up the dramatically lit drive towards the house I knew that we were in for a visual feast if nothing else. Menus and wine lists arrived and we ordered our aperitifs, I had a champagne cocktail and my grandmother had a martini. My cocktail was well made, with good quality spirit and Pol Roger champagne as opposed to bog standard cava. We ordered and were taken to our table post aperitif.

The amuse bouche arrived, it was a frothy white mushroom soup. I alerted the waiter to my allergies and he immediately headed to the kitchen. He came back, whisked away the amuse bouche and told me that the chef was going to make me something else. I found this impressive, as often dietry requirements in places such as Rhubarb are seen as peculiar or catered for with no real thought or dedication. My new amuse bouche came - an oxtail consomme - and I have to say I wasn't overly impressed. It was over salted and uninteresting - it almost made me wish he hadn't bothered as an amuse bouche should be a chance for the chef to show off his skill - and this didn't impress.
My starter, on the other hand, pigeon salad with muscat and raisin dressing, was stunning. Pigeon maybe a relatively simple meat to cook but the tender breast married wonderfuly with the surprisingly delicate sauce. I hadn't expected the nectaine, orangey flavours of muscat to marry with the raisins but it worked well. My grandmother's soup was fine - but uninspired - so uninspired we couldn't recall what the soup was the next day!

I ordered a half bottle of Ridge Geyserville 2003 as Ridge are one of my favourite wineries. I have to note that the wine list at Rhubarb is exceptional and it is not extortionate. All regions of the world are well represented with some interested lines from the New World that you may not expect somewhere like Rhubarb to stock. The other interesting thing about the list is their stocking of a good range of half bottles and magnums - allowing for greater choice and more flexibility. The wine was great - full credit to Ridge for always making lovely wines.

My main course was Veal with a date and plum sauce and potato latticed pancakes. I adore veal, and it was perfect though the sauce was once again a surprising one but it worked well - especially considering the wine we had ordered. There was a little too much of the sauce, and it did tend to overdominate the meat slightly but this is a very very minor complaint. My grandmother's Guineau Fowl was delicious too, with a surprisingly delicate sauce considering it was another odd fruit sauce.

I didn't have a pudding, but I did have an espresso and an Armagnac, the coffee was decent and the Armagnac good.

The atmosphere of the place and the decor is the real draw of Rhubarb, but the food does not disappoint. It's not aiming for stars or anything, but this is almost a themed restaurant - the theme being victorian morgue meets Tim Burton. The bill at the end of the night was steep, but this is somewhere for a special occasion or to impress someone, its not somewhere you go for exceptional food.

Tuesday, 11 March 2008

Monteiths, Edinburgh - Restaurant Review

Monteiths,
61 High Street.

Lunchtime on the mile. What on earth was I thinking? Touristy cafes, tartan tat and a complete dearth of value in terms of culinary experiences is what I expected. However, I had heard about a new place called Monteiths which, set up by the people responsible for the diva-tastic over styled Sygn bar in the west end, was supposed to be half decent and nicely tucked away.

They weren't kidding. On a dark dark royal mile, down a dark dark alley, beneath the dark dark 21st century kilts, down some dark dark stairs, some yuppies had set up home. I did wonder on my way down to the bar if I was lost, and about to walk into something I shoudln't. Indeed, on entering the bar the guy I assume was the manager looked thrilled to see us and the barman just looked stunned. We took a table towards the back of the bar and were handed menus.

The interior is small and awkwardly shaped and they have done well to fit in the tables in the way they have. It's done out in a very trendy, very 'now' way that a lot of bars in London and Manchester have been done up like recently. Think Sygn meets Oddfellows annoying graffitic style art meets the GRV paintjob and you're somewhere there. Mismatched furniture and a carboard mooses head nod to the fact we are, indeed in case you had forgottern, in Scotland.

We ordered. I ordered a glass of Viura (I screwed up at a blind tasting and wanted something really typical. This wasn't and was disappointing) and a glass of red for my companion which was much better. They managed to accomodate my eating difficulties, but gave me a choice of risotto or risotto. Sigh. She ordered a lamb burger. And then the wait began. There was only one other couple in there when we sat down, and they got their drinks about 10 minutes after we ordered our drinks. Our drinks arrived 10 minutes after that. Still, no harm done, the atmosphere is nice. I got chatting to the manager about wines and had a look at their boutique wine list. Unfortunately for him, we were kept waiting for an extra 30 minutes for our food which meant that I realised that whoever put that 'boutique' wine list together has absolutely no clue. I'd give examples, but I think I'd bore you, or get lambasted for being snotty. (hey, it's my job) BUT YES, anway, 40 minutes wait with one table in front of you seems a little odd, especially when they only got their food 10 minutes before us. You have to wonder what happens when they're busy.

The food, anyway, was fine. Nothing exciting i have to say and a little expensive for what is very average bar lunch. My risotto lacked the creaminess it should have and the chicken seemed pre-grilled and refrigereted, the deep fried parsley on top was just a bit odd. My companions burger looked better, but a little overcooked. The chips were amazing though apparently. Disappointing considering they were both over £10.
I didn't fancy pudding, so we had coffee and a tea. These arrived swiftly as did the bill. I even got good advice on where to get a nice bunch of flowers, so all was not lost.

Monteiths is good and atmospheric for a drink. The cocktails looked amazing and the whisky range is broad and VERY reasonably priced. The bar is well stocked, so next time I'll give the food a miss and have a gin martini thank you very much.

Lunch for two with two glasses of wine and hot drinks at the end plus tip was £37.